This list applies to turbo conversion of the Mercedes straight six. However, they also applies similar principles when it comes to turbo conversion, most of them cars that do not have a turbo from the beginning. We get a lot of the same questions all the time. To save time and make it easier for you so here is a list of answers to your questions.

What is the most necessary I must have to turbocharge my car ???

• EFI kit for both NA and Turbo engine ECU Standalone magament system
• Fuel injectors
• Ignition coil/coils  (Basic/ wasted spark/ Coil on plug)
• Allways better to make a new engine wiring harness.
• Power supplie station + relays
• CLT water temp sensor
• IAT Air temp sensor (connected near the throttle body)
• TPS Throttle possion sensor
• Wideband Lambda sensor
• VR/Hall Crank position sensor
• VR/Hall Cam position sensor
• Triggerwheel 60-02.
• (MS3X can support then most of the different models triggers on the market so you can use stock triggerwheel)
• If your car does not have EFI system from the begining and instead has carburator or K-jet system then you even need new, modern fuel system:
• Fuelrail, Fuel pressure regulator and new fuel lines.
• For the turbo you even need stronger fuel pump.

Turbokit basic parts:

• Turbocharger
• Exhaust manifold
• Wastegate
• Blow of valve
• Oilfeed support for turbo
• Oildrain return from the turbo to the oilpan
• Airfilter Openair
• Intercooler
• Intake pipes between turbo and intercooler and between intercoller and intake manifold.
• Silicone hoses and clamps for intake pipes.
• Downpipe + exhaust system
• If your car does not have EFI system from the begining and instead has carburator or K-jet system then you even need new, modern fuel system:
• Fuelrail, fuel pressure regulator, fuel lines and stronger fuelpump.
• Good to have things:
• Fuel pressure sensor to control fuelpressure.
• Knock sensor to control detonation.

What kind of diff should I have? What diff capable of much Hp?

How much your diff can handle depends a lot on the power curve you have. Do you have a truck turbo with much lag, your diff will break. With a good race turbo and smooth and soft power curve, your diff can handle a lot. It also plays the role of the gearbox and the clutch you have. With automatic transmission, your diff can handle much more power. It works with most ASD 185mm diff but larger ASD 210mm diff even better. 210mm is very strong.

What tranny do I need?

The best tranny is 722.6. Automatic transmission is much more reliable and stronger than manual gearboxes. If your gearbox gears quickly and well and does not slip between gears you can usually run up to 500-600 hp without gearbox modification.

What do I need to do with my engine ???

If you have the M103 or M104 (280,300,320) engine and it is in good condition , it can handle easy up to 600 hp without having to change anything in the engine.  To change to a new head gasket is preferred. M104 engine needs to lower the compression if you are going to boost more than 0.8 bar. (regular gas)  and 2.0 bar E85. To lower compression you can machine the pistons or have thicker gasket. M103 has already low compression, you can run high boost without opening the engine. If you have more than 700 hp so we recommend changing the rods to the H-Beam. Stock pistons however capable of over 1200 HP M103 and M104.992 (3.2) has single valve springs and should not be reved more than 6800 rpm M104.980 3.0 has double springs stock and can be reved to 8000 rpm  We have both shims for the M103 and inner valve springs for m104.992 in our webshop. For the boost pressure of 2 bar, we recommend the 12: 9 bolts, stock head gasket handle 3bar +++

Hi, do you have a cheaper Turbokit ? I do not need 600 hp, 300 is enough for me.

In order to get turbocharged 300 hp you need exactly the same parts. So the price for 300 hp and 600 hp is the same. You have to build a complete Turbokit and install complete EFI system.

General things to consider:

If you do not have prior experience of turbo installation, and do not know anyone who can help you out, we strongly recommend against installing a larger unit. This is due in part to the fact that upon installation, the vehicle’s EFI must be adapted to the new unit. Increased pressure requires a larger amount of fuel and in turn (often) requires larger injectors and a remodelling or exchange of MAF. In addition to the former, the ignition can also require tuning. For a successful turbo installation we recommend upgrading to a standalone EFI system to enable fuel/ignition control with the added benefit of ridding oneself of the MAF. Trial and error without a broadband lambda controller to observe the air/fuel mixture is most often results in engine/turbo failure. Its quite easy to spot if a turbo is running too warm – the causes are usually a poorly adapted engine, i.e. incorrect air/fuel mix and overly high exhaust temperatures reducing service life significantly.

We do NOT refund components damaged through misuse as described above. What’s more (you guessed it) the warranty is VOID. We are NOT responsible for any damage caused to the engine/machinery upon modification of a motor’s original configuration.

ALL TUNING IS DONE AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Oil Drains – should be minimum 16-18mm (AN12-AN14) internally for most units. Oil should be able to run freely without pressure, which is why the hose should be oriented vertically.

Oil Supply – the hose should be roughly 2-2,5mm . (AN3-AN4) Too rough a hose will see a pressure increase within the turbo, whereupon the turbo will bleed oil through the seals on both the compressor and turbine sides. Should you witness any signs of blue exhaust smoke, a hose check is in order.

Keep in mind that when rotating the compressor housing it is not enough to merely loosen the bolts and readjust, instead, free the housing entirely to ensure that the O-ring isn’t damaged in the process. Failure to do so may result in leakage!

Loose Turbos:

Slide-bearing equipped units always exhibit a small degree of play – this is normal. Looseness/play and worn bearings are unrelated to leakage and blue exhaust smoke. The reasons for the latter are numerous and may be related to faults in i.e. valve seals, piston rings, crank case ventilation, oil-seals and oil drains. Looseness is more apparent when the oil is warm, and of course when the turbo is emptied of oil.

We’ve received quite a number of perfectly functioning return units throughout the years from customers citing looseness/oil leakage as a problem, but in 100% of cases, the fault resided elsewhere. We’ll investigate your unit if you feel it isn’t up to standard, but failure to find any fault will result in a charge of  50EUR + Shipping. Troubleshoot thoroughly before jumping to conclusions. A majority of the aforementioned customers returned their units claiming to have tuned their cars at professional tuners who never make mistakes.. They were wrong.

IMPORTANT! Read this if you want your turbo will last forever.

Proper oil feed and oil drainage.

Oil feed 2-2,5 mm internal size. Oil drain at least 17mm internal size all the way.  Even all fittings and adapters must be minimum 17mm internal and the oil the oil must flow down into the oil pan without resistance and oil return must be placed above the engine oil level. AN10 return will not work! AN10 return is for ball bearing turbos ONLY! Oil drain must be minimum size AN12 and the adapter should be drilled up to 17mm!

Having the vacuum in the crankcase.

There must be at least 80-90kpa to your engine and your turbo to feel good. More vacuum is always better! This can be solved by connecting the crankcase ventilation after the catch tank to the inlet of the turbocharger. A vacuum pump can also be connected. By using open crankcase ventilation or to have it out to the catch tank resulting atmospheric pressure and even pressure in the crankcase. Oil return gets resistance, and this causes earlier damage of the seals and bearings and turbo will not provide full power output! Clear signs of poor crankcase ventilation and inadequate oil drain when the turbo shaft begins to loosen in and out. Piston rings get more stress and the oil leaks out to the combustion chamber which will lower your fuel octane and increase the risk of detonation.

NOTE! When you rotate the compressor housing, remove the O-ring. Do not rotate the housing with O-ring on. Before installation, heat the compressor housing with heat gun, then it goes on much easier!

Upon successful installation:

Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes. Do not rev the engine – check for any signs of leakage. After hard driving allow the engine to idle for around 3-5 minutes. To maximise the service life of your turbo, schedule regular servicing of oil, oil and air filters. The first 100km after a successful turbo installation should be driven normally – this is due to the bearings which have a settling period.

Valid for all turbos – always ensure the oil actually makes it INTO the turbo.

If you've done all this, you can just hit full throttle and full boost and feel how good life is!