Some things to think about:
If you do not have prior experience of turbo installation, and do not know anyone who can help you out, we strongly recommend against installing a larger unit. This is due in part to the fact that upon installation, the vehicle’s EFI must be adapted to the new unit.
Increased pressure requires a larger amount of fuel and in turn (often) requires larger injectors and a remodelling or exchange of MAF.
In addition to the former, the ignition can also require tuning.
For a successful turbo installation we recommend upgrading to a standalone EFI system to enable fuel/ignition control with the added benefit of ridding oneself of the MAF.
Trial and error without a broadband lambda controller to observe the air/fuel mixture is most often results in engine/turbo failure.
Its quite easy to spot if a turbo is running too warm – the causes are usually a poorly adapted engine, i.e. incorrect air/fuel mix and overly high exhaust temperatures reducing service life significantly.
We do NOT refund components damaged through misuse as described above.
What’s more (you guessed it) the warranty is VOID.
We are NOT responsible for any damage caused to the engine/machinery upon modification of a motor’s original configuration.
ALL TUNING IS DONE AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Oil Drains – should be minimum 16-18mm (AN12-AN14) internally for most units. Oil should be able to run freely without pressure, which is why the hose should be oriented vertically.
Oil Supply – the hose should be roughly 2-2,5mm . (AN3-AN4) Too rough a hose will see a pressure increase within the turbo, whereupon the turbo will bleed oil through the seals on both the compressor and turbine sides. Should you witness any signs of blue exhaust smoke, a hose check is in order.
Keep in mind that when rotating the compressor housing it is not enough to merely loosen the bolts and readjust, instead, free the housing entirely to ensure that the O-ring isn’t damaged in the process. Failure to do so may result in leakage!
Slide-bearing equipped units always exhibit a small degree of play – this is normal.
Looseness/play and worn bearings are unrelated to leakage and blue exhaust smoke. The reasons for the latter are numerous and may be related to faults in i.e. valve seals, piston rings, crank case ventilation, oil-seals and oil drains.
Looseness is more apparent when the oil is warm, and of course when the turbo is emptied of oil.
We’ve received quite a number of perfectly functioning return units throughout the years from customers citing looseness/oil leakage as a problem, but in 100% of cases, the fault resided elsewhere. We’ll investigate your unit if you feel it isn’t up to standard, but failure to find any fault will result in a charge of 800 SEK + Postage & Packaging. Troubleshoot thoroughly before jumping to conclusions. A majority of the aforementioned customers returned their units claiming to have tuned their cars at professional tuners who never make mistakes.. They were wrong.
Two things you should know if you want your Turbo will last forever.
1) Proper oilfeed and oilreturn.
Oilfeed 2-2,5 mm internal size-
Oilreturn at least 17mm internal size all the way. Even all fittings and adapters must be minimum 17mm internal and the oil the oil must flow down into the oilpan without resistance and oil return must be placed above the engine oil level.
AN10 return will not work!
AN10 return is for ballbearing turbos ONLY!
Oildrain must be minimum size AN12 and the adapter should be drilled up to 17mm!
2) Having the vacuum in the crankcase.
There must be at least 80-90kpa to your engine and your turbo to feel good.
More vacum even better!
This can be solved by connecting the crankcase ventilation after the catch tank to the inlet of the turbocharger. A vacuum pump can also be connected.
By using open crankcase ventilation or to have it out to the catchtank resulting atmospheric pressure and even pressure in the crankcase
Oilreturn gets resistance and this causes earlier damage of the seals and bearings and turbo will not provide full power output!
Clear signs of poor crankcase ventilation and inadequate oil drain when the turbo shaft begins to loose in and out.
Piston rings get more stress and the oil leaks out to the combustion chamber which will lower your fuel octane and increase the risk of detonation.
If you've done all this, you can just hit full throttle and full boost and feel how good life is!
And remember, if you drive like a pussy you will not get any warranty!
NOTE! When you rotate the compressor housing, remove the O-ring. Do not rotate the housing with O-ring on.
Before installation, heat the compressor housing with heat gun, then it goes on much easier!
Upon successful installation:
Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes.
Do not rev the engine – check for any signs of leakage.
After hard driving allow the engine to idle for around 3-5 minutes.
To maximise the service life of your turbo, schedule regular servicing of oil, oil and air filters.
The first 100km after a successful turbo installation should be driven normally – this is due to the bearings which have a settling period.
- Invalid for vehicles with untuned stock EFI’s.
- Valid only upon correct installation per our instructions. Feel free to contact us with any questions – it could save you time and money!
Valid for all turbos – always ensure the oil actually makes it INTO the turbo.
TB70: Internal oil drain size minimum 16-17mm internal
TB60: Internal oil drain size min 16-17mm internal
TB80: Internal oild drain size min 18mm internal